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Information supplied by Ethiopia: The Bradt Travel Guide - third edition by Philip Briggs One of Tigre's most interesting features is a proliferation of rock-hewn churches, the bulk of which either lay along the main road between Adigrat and Mekele or else can be easily visited from it. The most numerous cluster of churches, a group of about 30, is carved into the rocky faces of the mountains in the Gerhalta region. There are also at least ten rock-hewn churches that can be visited by public transport or as a short walk from the main Adigrat-Mekele road.
In 1868 the British expedition led by Napier passed through the small Tigrean village of Wukro where they were shown an astonishing church carved into a rocky outcrop. For several decades after this it was assumed by the outside world that this church was the only one of its sort in Tigre. It was not until 35 years ago that the sheer number of rock-hewn churches were discovered to exist in Tigre. Little is known about the age of the churches. However, there is a general consensus that the churches predate those at Lalibela, though few churches in Tigre are as immediately impressive as the ones in Lalibela. Nevertheless, you cannot help but feel a sense of wonder as you enter each church, not only for the craftsmanship, but also for the antiquity and the air of sanctity it has absorbed over centuries of uninterrupted use.
This section follows the rock-hewn churches along the main road south from Adigrat. You can get a bus to Adigrat from Axum, Mekele or Asmara. If you're coming from Addis then you can fly to Axum and take a bus from there. You can also take a bus from Gondar (see 'How to get there' in the Axum section) and then take a bus to Adigrat. The Gheralta cluster of churches can only be reached on foot or in a private vehicle, and it requires a few days to explore. Most churches can be approached in a 4x4 (which you can hire in Addis, or else fly or bus to Mekele and arrange to have your vehicle meet you there), though as they tend to be on cliffs you will always have to walk the final stretch. The churches at Sinkata, Teka Tesfai, Wukro and near Adigrat are only a short distance from the Adigrat-Mekele road. They can be approached by foot or public transport and are most likely to be of interest to visitors with time restraints or who cannot afford a private vehicle and are not geared to long hikes.
The Weldu Sebagadis Modern Hotel has clean rooms with hot water at a moderate price. US$ 2 will get you a self-contained room with a double bed and cold shower at the Ethiopia Hotel. For pastries the Sweetcake Pastry and Bakery is recommended. If you wish to see churches that are further out than a day-trip you may have to camp or else arrange to stay in private houses.
The official fee for entering any church in this region is Birr 20 but some churches will ask up to five times that amount, which is a lot if you want to see four or five churches in a day. Be firm and you should be able to bring the price down.
The 1:50,000 maps of the region compiled by the Ethiopian Map Authority are very unreliable. More useful is the diagrammatic map in the Bradt Guide. Even if you generally prefer to travel independently there are several reasons why you should think about getting a knowledgeable guide to accompany you. Firstly, there are no reliable maps of the region. Secondly, a guide can help arrange somewhere to sleep. Thirdly, most churches are locked and if you don't speak the language it may take some time to find the priest who has the key. Finally, the guide may be able to negotiate fees for you. You will be more certain of a experienced, knowledgeable guide if you hire one in Mekele. In order to see the interior of any of these churches properly you need a torch or a candle. A flash is essential for photography.
The rock-hewn churches of Tigre are a worthy subject for a book on their own, and only some of them are mentioned here. More extensive information can be found in the Bradt Guide itself.
The church of Gebriel Tsilalmao lies about a 20 minute walk from the Adigrat-Wukro road. Unusual features include two windows cut in Axumite style, and a large room in the back with a pair of hermit's caves in its wall. Sinkata - Sinkata is a quiet village of stone houses 36km south of Adigrat. There's plenty of transport to Sinkata along the main road. About 30 minutes walk from Sinkata lies Adi Chewa Arbuta Insesa. It is a large church with several unusual features, most notably the deepest domed ceiling in any Tigrean church, and strange red and yellow stencil-like figures on thick columns. The Gheralta Cluster - The cluster of more than 35 rock-hewn churches in the Gheralta region is the largest and most important in Tigre. One to two hours walk south of Megab Abuna Yemata Guh is on a sheer cliff face and must be reached by clambering up hand and foot holds. It is probably the most spectacularly situated rock-hewn church anywhere in Ethiopia. A couple of hours walk from Dugem is the Abunun Abraham Debre Tsion church which is elaborately decorated with 16th century murals. The church's ceremonial fan dates back to the 15th century and consists of 34 parchment panels, each painted with a figure of a saint. Regarded by many experts as the finest church in Tigre, Abreha we Atsbeha lies about halfway between Dugem and Wukro. It is the site of a major annual pilgrimage (14 October). The beautifully carved roof is supported by several decorated arches. The church's claims to antiquity are emphasised by its many treasures, among them a prayer cross that is said to have belonged to Abba Salama, the first Bishop of Ethiopia. The Teka Tesfai cluster - This, the most accessible cluster of churches in Tigre, is sited only 2 km east of the main Adigrat-Mekele road. It is easily visited as a day trip from either Adigrat or Wukro. Of particular interest is Medhane Alem Adi Kasho, regarded as one of the oldest and most impressive churches in Tigre for its size and impressive architecture. The interior has a cathedral-like atmosphere, and its magnificent roof is dense with patterned etchings. Wukro - In Wukro you will find Wukro Chirkos, the single most accessible rock-hewn church in Tigre and is one of the most impressive. v For more information on this area, see the most excellent third edition of Ethiopia: The Bradt Travel Guide, by Philip Briggs. Copyright ©2002 Philip Briggs. All Rights Reserved. Permission to reprint or copy any material from this page should be addressed to the publisher at info@bradt-travelguides.com. Have you signed our Guestbook? Email | Top
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