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Islam came to Ethiopia in very early times. Mohammed himself was said to have sent followers to Ethiopia in 615 AD, and they received a warm welcome. And as Axum's Christian strength was to wane later in that century, so Islam was to become a more meaningful influence across the country.

The 16th century was to see disastrous conflict between Christendom and Islam in Ethiopia. Of particular note was the powerful invasion led by Mohammed Gragn (the Left-Handed) in a very real attempt to conquer the entire country. This force was to be very successful in many areas of Ethiopia and was only eventually defeated with the help of the Portuguese led by Vasco da Gama's son Christopher.

These days, the Islamic faith and Christianity seem to co-exist very peacefully indeed in most areas. The high central plateau is predominantly Christian, while the lower surrounding areas to the east and south are more uniformly Muslim.

The holy city of Harar lies near the railway line to Djibouti in the east. It is officially the fourth most holy site in Islam and its architecture gives no doubt to its history and faith. Mosques abound within the city walls - 87 at the last count - and the colourful dresses of the women add to the exotic ambience of a memorable town. v

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